A coalition of second-hand clothing industry leaders, policymakers and academics from Africa, Asia, Europe and North America has raised concerns about the United Nations Environment Programme’s (UNEP) “Circularity and Used Textile Trade Project.”

Led by the Ghana Used Clothing Dealers Association (GUCDA) and including major trade bodies such as Recycling Europe and SMART, the group criticized UNEP for relying on unverified research in drafting global guidelines for used textiles.

While commending UNEP’s efforts on textile sustainability, the signatories stressed that stronger transparency, data integrity and stakeholder engagement are crucial for the project’s credibility. They highlighted challenges in the consultation process, including short feedback timelines, limited access to draft materials and the presentation of key data without methodological disclosure.

Stakeholders from Ghana, Kenya and Pakistan noted that definitions of ‘waste’ and critical data were applied without sufficient transparency, hindering meaningful participation.

The coalition urged UNEP to:

• Pause the draft guidelines until research is independently verified.
• Share all research methods, data and definitions for full review.
• Engage independent local experts to ensure a transparent and inclusive process.

Jeffren Boakye Abrokwah, Chairman of GUCDA, said, “The project could reshape national trade policies affecting millions. We have concerns about national dialogues influenced by NGOs with pre-existing waste advocacy campaigns funded by the fast fashion industry.”

Alan Wheeler, CEO of the Textile Recycling Association, UK, added, “UNEP’s adoption of unverified findings undermines its impartiality and public trust. Independent research is essential to ensure guidelines reflect global realities.”

Teresiah Wairimu Njenga, Chair of the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya, warned, “Unless UNEP disengages from activist organizations tied to fast fashion, communities worldwide could face serious harm.”